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By
Ica Wahbeh
Jordan Times, Weekender
June
1, 2006
“Out
of the
Desert” come outstanding signs of civilisation
and of lifestyle that are as enigmatic as its vast expanse
of sand. It is also the apt name of the exhibition at
Darat Al Funun grouping a breathtaking collection of
archaeological findings (on loan from the Petra Museum,
with the blessing of the Department of Antiquities),
video and graphic art.
Like
a barely opened jeweller’s case tantalising with
its precious contents, the “stones of Beidha”
enchant the eye with their detailed beauty.
Revelling
in a modern installation by architect/artist Sahel Hiyari,
an ingenious construction of black wooden slates with
openings like a castle’s battlements, the stone
heads and capitals are set apart by the coral-red colour
inside, delicate pieces testimony to the skill of the
master masons who produced them.
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Beidha,
10km north of Petra, was part of the agricultural
network necessary for a major city like Petra.
It was a wine-producing area and seems to have
served as a retreat for some of Petra’s
citizens. According to archaeological literature,
towards the end of the 1st century BC, a person
of great wealth built a residence on one of the
high places of Beidha. Approached by a long ramp
and steps, the complex contained a large hall
with columns with exceptional capitals: Each had
four heads of gods carved on it; on the capitals
at the entrance there were Medusa heads (to fend
off evil). On the columns at the corner of the
room, the capitals featured grapes (as befitting
a vineyard). On the upper level were smaller capitals,
again with heads of deities at the centre, but
with griffons at the corner. Believed to have
been used to receive visitors and for ritual dining,
“the colonnaded hall” shows Hellenistic,
Egyptian, Assyrian and Roman influences.
Aware
of the history witnessed by these remains, one
can only lose oneself looking at these marvels,
grateful to be allowed a glimpse into the refinement
of another era.
The
heads, with features incredibly realistic, the
floral motifs, the twisted vine cords, the bunches
of grapes, the cones and acorns preserved surprisingly
well on the limestone capitals are awesome. The
more one looks the more details make themselves
clear. What patience and artistic talent, what
labour of love can one witness so many generations
later!
Keeping
up the momentum, also in the main building, there
is further testimony to the power of the desert,
this kiln that perfects ingenuity and brilliance.
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In
pristine whitish surrounding, conceived (again
by Hiyari) almost as a Japanese garden, pale ochre
sand of the finest quality serves as the background
for the contrasting Rajl stones of black volcanic
rock.
Able
to admire them from an elevated white wooden plank,
visitors seem to float around the mystical stones,
resourcefully used by nomads to leave messages
for each other or show their artistic inclination.
Situated
in Jordan’s Eastern Desert, at times called
the Black Desert because of its black volcanic
rock, Rajl is the place where nomads would arrange
stones into circles and mounds called cairns.
Often they would carve texts and figures on these
stones (which provide an ideal black background
for the beige carvings) that could be grouped
from a few to over a 100. Some have a small number
or no man-made markings on them. Some are grouped
in long boulder walls and corral-like structures,
literature explains, which may represent game
traps. The function of these places is not yet
established, but it is assumed they may have served
as desert rallying points, camping sites during
hunting season, herding or burial sites.
The
incised images include wild animals, such as oryx,
deer, cat, ibex, ostrich, or domesticated animals
like camel, horse, dog, donkey, sheep. The rock
art also shows men and women, as well as hunting
and caravan scenes.
The
texts are mostly written in Safaitic, but also
in Kufi Arabic, an indication that they are the
product of the 8th century.
Although
the creation of nomadic people of the desert,
some show incredible artistic talent. The outline
of the animals is realistic, the women voluptuous,
the signs and marks clear. Little known to the
public, the stones exhibited at Darat Al Funun
make the viewer privileged.
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The
treasure trove is not exhausted, and the marvels
of the desert continue to unravel themselves.
The Petra papyri are a group of 140 carbonised
papyrus scrolls found at Petra in excavations
conducted by the American Centre of Oriental Research
under the direction of Pierre M. Bikai. The texts
are written in Byzantine Greek. They belonged
to Theodorus, son of Obodianos, a church official
in Petra. Written in the 6th century AD, the scrolls
were stored in a room adjacent to the Petra church.
When the church burned, the scrolls were carbonised
and thus preserved. They seem to be the private
papers of Theodorus’ extended family of
wealthy landowners. Besides being interesting
records of a family, they also “contain
unique evidence of the history and development
of the Arabic language [as] many of the personal
names in the archives, although sounding Greek
or Latin, may in fact render Semitic or more specifically
Arabic equivalents”.
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Also
in the main building, entrance masked by
a black curtain with the statement of the
artist in white Arabic and English lettering,
is Suha Shoman’s video art filmed
in Beidha, “I am everywhere”.
I,
like in life; or like in light prevailing
over dark; like in the human being humbly
(or with the arrogance of power) triumphing
over nature; and even like the carefree
bird following its set course.
In
Shoman’s latest video art film, it
is all together in a powerful, symbol-laden
succession of images at the end of which
the viewer remembers to breathe.
In
a dark catacomb, the play of darkness and
light and the accompanying shadows evoke
life as it must have been at the beginning
of creation.
A
thick, milky white ray of light is intersected
by a transparent shaft tremulously meeting
it at a point of refraction. Diaphanous
at first, the timid ray slowly assumes material
dimension, becomes an organic, living, breathing
creature.
Entrapped
in the subterranean chamber, the beam of
light moves, pulsates, disintegrates in
an infinity of lines to the rhythm of a
powerful gong-like staccato sound (maybe
even of a vespers bell) that intensifies
its being. Like an agonising body, the writhing
patterns become loose and then one again,
in an amazing game that defies known laws
and tantalises the regimented mind.
A
lone bird flies around, trying to find its
way in the scheme of things.
Moments
of quiet alternate with dramatic sounds
masterfully chosen to underline the image,
enhance the meaning and keep one in awe.
Light
dances, becomes water, is stagnant, then
laps some unknown shores; at all times the
beat of a huge heart is sensed or made tangible
by the movement of light and the accompanying
sound. Life is constantly felt, its physical
presence clearly present or subliminally
inferred.
Patterns
of the most unexpected shapes give as many
embodiments of life to light. Matter and
form change constantly: Light, water, smoke,
water. At times the shapes are those of
birds in flight, the solitary bird from
the beginning becoming many others, all
trying to fly away, break free from the
darkness. The transformation is performed
seamlessly, becoming the game of a creator
enjoying himself at playing and making things
happen.
The
grey background initially perceived by trained
senses as hard stone gradually assumes softness.
Its grainy texture will soon appear like
a sponge, living off the water and light
washing over it. Or maybe corals, swaying
in the water, organic matter brought to
life by the quivering timid light that later
sweeps over it forcefully, awakening it,
making it part of the living universe.
The
light rays intersect again, separate again,
become one wide powerful beam gloriously
surging up, above, to freedom, escaping
the cavernous darkness that kept it prisoner
below. With it, the lonely birds flies too,
breaks away from the chain of darkness,
asserts itself as the life that is “everywhere”.
The
film lasts 8:36 minutes. It could be as
long as the time of creation. Or as the
time it takes the viewer to see and perceive
meanings deeply hidden in the metaphoric
images. It is, in a temporal sense, a fleeting
moment in eternity, but it leaves behind
more than an ephemeral impression. It talks
about the artist’s philosophical approach,
her roots in the land of the Nabataeans
and the civilisations that lived in this
part of the world, with all their spiritual
beliefs and contribution to humanity.
It's
an awakening of sorts, of life, senses and
meanings.
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Up
in the Blue House, Petra inspires again. This
time Hakim Jamain, a Jordanian artist whose etchings/printings
(on zinc plates) are renditions of the famous
city where he spent much time, soaking in the
place and its history.
The
mostly sepia coloured works both seem to show
the passage of time and are closest to the colour
of the rose-red city.
Stone
heads and torsos, coins, seals populate Jamain’s
printings. The arid region landscape is depicted
in painstaking detail. The “classical”
effigies are often placed at odd angles (sideways,
upside down), their perfect beauty jarring the
disarrayed landscape surrounding them.
Stylised
lines become a long-horned animal in a series
of four smaller works; three others are more abstract,
yet one feels the sand of the desert permeating
everything, encroaching on the desert vegetation.
And, inevitably, the Treasury makes its way into
the artist’s works, in ochre brown, reddish
hues, sitting under a canopy of parchment with
floral motifs, giving the impression of collage
and disclosing the artist’s talent.
Arabic
script and Greek letters are present in this rich
interpretation of Petra, its surroundings and
life. Wavy, groovy images make up landscape, houses,
narrow gorges, explosion of stars, all that is
Petra known or yet to be discovered.
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The exhibition, seeped in the past, an interesting documentation
of the civilisations that preceded ours on these lands,
will be on until July 20.
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