By Ica Wahbeh
Jordan Times, Weekender

June 1, 2006


“Out of the Desert” come outstanding signs of civilisation and of lifestyle that are as enigmatic as its vast expanse of sand. It is also the apt name of the exhibition at Darat Al Funun grouping a breathtaking collection of archaeological findings (on loan from the Petra Museum, with the blessing of the Department of Antiquities), video and graphic art. 

Like a barely opened jeweller’s case tantalising with its precious contents, the “stones of Beidha” enchant the eye with their detailed beauty.

Revelling in a modern installation by architect/artist Sahel Hiyari, an ingenious construction of black wooden slates with openings like a castle’s battlements, the stone heads and capitals are set apart by the coral-red colour inside, delicate pieces testimony to the skill of the master masons who produced them.

 



Beidha, 10km north of Petra, was part of the agricultural network necessary for a major city like Petra. It was a wine-producing area and seems to have served as a retreat for some of Petra’s citizens. According to archaeological literature, towards the end of the 1st century BC, a person of great wealth built a residence on one of the high places of Beidha. Approached by a long ramp and steps, the complex contained a large hall with columns with exceptional capitals: Each had four heads of gods carved on it; on the capitals at the entrance there were Medusa heads (to fend off evil). On the columns at the corner of the room, the capitals featured grapes (as befitting a vineyard). On the upper level were smaller capitals, again with heads of deities at the centre, but with griffons at the corner. Believed to have been used to receive visitors and for ritual dining, “the colonnaded hall” shows Hellenistic, Egyptian, Assyrian and Roman influences.

Aware of the history witnessed by these remains, one can only lose oneself looking at these marvels, grateful to be allowed a glimpse into the refinement of another era.

The heads, with features incredibly realistic, the floral motifs, the twisted vine cords, the bunches of grapes, the cones and acorns preserved surprisingly well on the limestone capitals are awesome. The more one looks the more details make themselves clear. What patience and artistic talent, what labour of love can one witness so many generations later!

Keeping up the momentum, also in the main building, there is further testimony to the power of the desert, this kiln that perfects ingenuity and brilliance.


 



In pristine whitish surrounding, conceived (again by Hiyari) almost as a Japanese garden, pale ochre sand of the finest quality serves as the background for the contrasting Rajl stones of black volcanic rock.

Able to admire them from an elevated white wooden plank, visitors seem to float around the mystical stones, resourcefully used by nomads to leave messages for each other or show their artistic inclination.

Situated in Jordan’s Eastern Desert, at times called the Black Desert because of its black volcanic rock, Rajl is the place where nomads would arrange stones into circles and mounds called cairns. Often they would carve texts and figures on these stones (which provide an ideal black background for the beige carvings) that could be grouped from a few to over a 100. Some have a small number or no man-made markings on them. Some are grouped in long boulder walls and corral-like structures, literature explains, which may represent game traps. The function of these places is not yet established, but it is assumed they may have served as desert rallying points, camping sites during hunting season, herding or burial sites.

The incised images include wild animals, such as oryx, deer, cat, ibex, ostrich, or domesticated animals like camel, horse, dog, donkey, sheep. The rock art also shows men and women, as well as hunting and caravan scenes.

The texts are mostly written in Safaitic, but also in Kufi Arabic, an indication that they are the product of the 8th century.

Although the creation of nomadic people of the desert, some show incredible artistic talent. The outline of the animals is realistic, the women voluptuous, the signs and marks clear. Little known to the public, the stones exhibited at Darat Al Funun make the viewer privileged.





The treasure trove is not exhausted, and the marvels of the desert continue to unravel themselves. The Petra papyri are a group of 140 carbonised papyrus scrolls found at Petra in excavations conducted by the American Centre of Oriental Research under the direction of Pierre M. Bikai. The texts are written in Byzantine Greek. They belonged to Theodorus, son of Obodianos, a church official in Petra. Written in the 6th century AD, the scrolls were stored in a room adjacent to the Petra church. When the church burned, the scrolls were carbonised and thus preserved. They seem to be the private papers of Theodorus’ extended family of wealthy landowners. Besides being interesting records of a family, they also “contain unique evidence of the history and development of the Arabic language [as] many of the personal names in the archives, although sounding Greek or Latin, may in fact render Semitic or more specifically Arabic equivalents”.



 
 



Also in the main building, entrance masked by a black curtain with the statement of the artist in white Arabic and English lettering, is Suha Shoman’s video art filmed in Beidha, “I am everywhere”.

I, like in life; or like in light prevailing over dark; like in the human being humbly (or with the arrogance of power) triumphing over nature; and even like the carefree bird following its set course.

In Shoman’s latest video art film, it is all together in a powerful, symbol-laden succession of images at the end of which the viewer remembers to breathe.

In a dark catacomb, the play of darkness and light and the accompanying shadows evoke life as it must have been at the beginning of creation.

A thick, milky white ray of light is intersected by a transparent shaft tremulously meeting it at a point of refraction. Diaphanous at first, the timid ray slowly assumes material dimension, becomes an organic, living, breathing creature.

Entrapped in the subterranean chamber, the beam of light moves, pulsates, disintegrates in an infinity of lines to the rhythm of a powerful gong-like staccato sound (maybe even of a vespers bell) that intensifies its being. Like an agonising body, the writhing patterns become loose and then one again, in an amazing game that defies known laws and tantalises the regimented mind.

A lone bird flies around, trying to find its way in the scheme of things.

Moments of quiet alternate with dramatic sounds masterfully chosen to underline the image, enhance the meaning and keep one in awe.

Light dances, becomes water, is stagnant, then laps some unknown shores; at all times the beat of a huge heart is sensed or made tangible by the movement of light and the accompanying sound. Life is constantly felt, its physical presence clearly present or subliminally inferred.

Patterns of the most unexpected shapes give as many embodiments of life to light. Matter and form change constantly: Light, water, smoke, water. At times the shapes are those of birds in flight, the solitary bird from the beginning becoming many others, all trying to fly away, break free from the darkness. The transformation is performed seamlessly, becoming the game of a creator enjoying himself at playing and making things happen.

The grey background initially perceived by trained senses as hard stone gradually assumes softness. Its grainy texture will soon appear like a sponge, living off the water and light washing over it. Or maybe corals, swaying in the water, organic matter brought to life by the quivering timid light that later sweeps over it forcefully, awakening it, making it part of the living universe.

The light rays intersect again, separate again, become one wide powerful beam gloriously surging up, above, to freedom, escaping the cavernous darkness that kept it prisoner below. With it, the lonely birds flies too, breaks away from the chain of darkness, asserts itself as the life that is “everywhere”.

The film lasts 8:36 minutes. It could be as long as the time of creation. Or as the time it takes the viewer to see and perceive meanings deeply hidden in the metaphoric images. It is, in a temporal sense, a fleeting moment in eternity, but it leaves behind more than an ephemeral impression. It talks about the artist’s philosophical approach, her roots in the land of the Nabataeans and the civilisations that lived in this part of the world, with all their spiritual beliefs and contribution to humanity.

It's an awakening of sorts, of life, senses and meanings.


 



Up in the Blue House, Petra inspires again. This time Hakim Jamain, a Jordanian artist whose etchings/printings (on zinc plates) are renditions of the famous city where he spent much time, soaking in the place and its history.

The mostly sepia coloured works both seem to show the passage of time and are closest to the colour of the rose-red city.

Stone heads and torsos, coins, seals populate Jamain’s printings. The arid region landscape is depicted in painstaking detail. The “classical” effigies are often placed at odd angles (sideways, upside down), their perfect beauty jarring the disarrayed landscape surrounding them.

Stylised lines become a long-horned animal in a series of four smaller works; three others are more abstract, yet one feels the sand of the desert permeating everything, encroaching on the desert vegetation. And, inevitably, the Treasury makes its way into the artist’s works, in ochre brown, reddish hues, sitting under a canopy of parchment with floral motifs, giving the impression of collage and disclosing the artist’s talent.

Arabic script and Greek letters are present in this rich interpretation of Petra, its surroundings and life. Wavy, groovy images make up landscape, houses, narrow gorges, explosion of stars, all that is Petra known or yet to be discovered.



The exhibition, seeped in the past, an interesting documentation of the civilisations that preceded ours on these lands, will be on until July 20.
 

See also:

> Discoveries in Beidha
> Rock Art of Rajl
> Petra Papyrus Khalid & Suha Shoman
> I am everywhere, video art by Suha Shoman
> Salt of the South, graphic art by Hakim Jamain

>
Desert inspirations through time

press clips
summer academy
currently on
workshops